The Marker Wadden Expedition

Marker Wadden have been there for a few years now, but until recently I didn’t have the chance to visit this newest part of the Netherlands. On a beautiful day in late March, I finally took the ferry from Lelystad with my travel companion R., to take a look at the nature archipelago in the Markermeer. Our high expectations were more than met by both the landscape and the architecture. And the photogenic weather with beautiful cloudy skies also generously cooperated.

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Markermeer

Markermeer is a lake that has only existed since the Houtrib Dike between Lelystad and Enkhuizen was constructed in 1976. Before that, this body of water was part of a larger lake: IJsselmeer. And even longer ago it was part of the Zuiderzee, a large estuary in connection with the North Sea. For a long time, the intention was to reclaim this lake Markermeer in its entirety. But in 2003 it was finally decided to cancel that Markerwaard project.

Muddy

Since then, the lake has served as our national rain barrel, a handy freshwater buffer during dry summers. But nature did not fare so well for a long time. As a result of the closure, the water in the lake was hardly refreshed. Sludge from the bottom of the shallow lake was stirred up by the wind; the water became muddy and the bottom life suffocated. The many artificial banks made things even worse. The lake became a large container of cloudy water with fewer and fewer plants, fish and birds.

Wadden

To give nature a helping hand, a plan was conceived to create some pieces of land in a small part of the lake: Marker Wadden. In the shelter between the islands, the sludge could settle. The water would become clearer and the aquatic life would return. And at the same time, many kilometres of natural shoreline would be added. And so it happened.

Construction

Marker Wadden were, by Dutch standards, realised very quickly. In 2012, nature preservation society Natuurmonumenten published the plans for a new nature reserve in the north-eastern corner of the Markermeer. In 2016, the construction of the five islands actually began. The main island has been accessible to the public since 2018. And in 2023, two new islands were added to the archipelago.

When you walk around there now, it is hard to imagine that this area was a body of water less than ten years ago. The dunes, the marshes, the reed fields: it is as if they have always been there. As a result, the Wadden have definitely been discovered by all kinds of birds; there is a lot of chirping going on on this spring day.

Village

What I really like is that the architecture is not neglected. Natuurmonumenten could have simply placed a few random sheds or containers. But instead, they’ve built a beautiful photogenic village in the dunes between the beach and the harbour basin, accessible via a winding path from the ferry jetty. With a harbour office, a visitor centre slash beach bar, a few holiday homes and a group accommodation.

Self-sufficient

Each building is different, but they are related to each other, due to the creative roof shapes and the facades of untreated larch wood from Dutch forests. The birdwatching huts and the iconic lookout tower were also designed in the same style. The settlement is completely self-sufficient: electricity is generated by solar panels and a windmill, water comes from the lake and is filtered on site, waste water is purified in a constructed wetland. It’s the first off grid settlement in the Netherlands.

Award

In short: praise to Natuurmonumenten for this coherent design of landscape, urban development and architecture. And of course for the offices involved: Vista, Palmbout and Ziegler Branderhorst. I’m not alone in my appreciation: in 2021, Marker Wadden were awarded the Dutch Design Award in the habitat category.

Destination

And on top of it all it is just nice that in our crowded country there is suddenly a new destination, a nice place to go to. That should happen more often as far as I am concerned; perhaps a nice island can also be made in the North Sea. Dare to dream…

Walk

The Marker Wadden are currently about eight square kilometers in size. The main island is about two and a half square kilometers. Big enough to take a nice walk, over winding paths and partly over boardwalks. Although a number of options were closed due to the breeding season, we could walked seven kilometers. And we haven’t even been all over the place.

Crossing

It became a bit of an adventure when we wanted to walk back to the village along the dike on the west coast. There are three sunken sections on that route where the water flows in. It is only a few centimeters deep there, but that was enough to make us decide to make the crossing barefoot. I reminded me of wading through Icelandic rivers. Although the water was a bit colder there.

Swimming

Marker Wadden is not really a destination when you’re into bathing. Most beaches were closed during our visit due to the breeding season. This island will never be a second Zandvoort, let alone a second Ibiza. But the beach near the harbour is accessible. Travel companion R. couldn’t resist the temptation to take a dip there. Although still a bit chilly, the swimming water was approved.

Expansion

In the future, Marker Wadden may become much larger: around 100 square kilometres, almost half of which above water. That is still only one seventh of the total surface area of Markermeer. Natuurmomenten is currently investigating the options for expansion. In doing so, they are also looking at how the existing islands can be reinforced. Storm Henk in particular has wreaked havoc on the sandy coast in the northwest and southwest.

Hopefully, part of the expansion will also be accessible to two-legged primates. It would be great to make a hike of 15 to 20 kilometers. I can’t wait.